I’ve been searching for something other than epoxy to glue pinned hinges with, and I think I found it at last. Beli-Zell, from Adhesions Technics in Germany works brilliantly, it’s strong, and easy to apply. I’ve always thought epoxy was wasteful and difficult to work with. Epoxy is not easy to get it in the hinge slot, and it’s runny until it cures. Most often you have to tape or oil the hinge pins to avoid them getting permanently stuck. It just takes a long time and is difficult to get right with epoxy.
I’ve experimented with Beli-Zell before, using a file to roughen the surface area of the hinges so that the Beli-Zell glue would adhere better. I used normal Beli-Zell, the green tube which is an expanding polyurethane glue. A lot of hingepins got glued stuck, but no hinges came off. Semi-successful at best.
Two types of Beli-Zell: The white one is perfect as a hinge glue
This time I’ve tested both the green (clear/yellow glue) and the orange (white glue) tube. The Beli-Zell white (20 min) tube is simply something completely different. Using Du-Bro pinned hinges, I glued one with each type of Beli-Zell to a balsa trailing edge. The next day, I tried to remove them. I was able to, using great force, to pull the clear Beli-Zell hinge out. Looking at the hinge, I saw the glue had only partially adhered to the surface. White Beli-Zell was another story. It was stuck, and no amount of force would remove it. I cut away the wood to inspect the hinge, only to find that it was totally merged with the wood. A blob of glue from each tube confirmed that the white Beli-Zell is in fact more elastic, In the picture, the white blob is still slightly rubbery, while the clear glue is stiff and brittle. And best of all – the white Beli-Zell does not expand into the hinge pin. It’s just a a tiny bit to thick, so it doesn’t come in contact with the pin at all. What’s more, the tip of the glue tube fits the hinge slot – two licks of glue in the slot, push the hinge in, and wait for it to set – done! No mess, and no working with old knife blades and epoxy. I just hinged the entire Xigris this way using white Beli-Zell, and it was all done in one evening. I’m never going back.
February 11, 2011 – 14:48
The Xigris, my first 2×2 electric is underway.
Equipment:
- Plettenberg Evo
- Kontronik Jive 100 HV
- Futaba FASST
- 9650 x 2 in stab
- 9154 x 2 ailerons
- BLS154 rudder
Follow the build here
With the switch to YS CDi, I needed to get into 2.4 ghz systems in a hurry to be safe from radio interference with the new ignition system. My trusty old MC-22 is possible to convert, but considering the price tag, the Futaba T8 FGA was simply irresistable. I could get a brand new radio system complete with a very decent 2.4 receiver for the same price a conversion of the MC-22 would have cost. That means I can still use the MC-22 and it’s receivers for older models. Being a handheld radio, the T8 is also a sensible choice for indoor flying.
Another big reason for choosing Futaba is that they have a great range of 2.4 receivers at affordable prices. I could not find another system with more suitable receivers for my need. In addition, Futaba is probably the biggest brand and parts and service is available anywhere in the world.
When buying a new 2.4 radio these days I really wanted a native 2.4 radio, something without interchangeable transmitter modules, empty 35Mhz antenna slots and a bulky WIFI-like anteanna sticking out the back. The T8 is beautiful in that respect, being so simple and elegant and infinitely programmable. The sensor touch control thing is reminiscent of an Ipod’s control pad and very easy to operate. It has so many great features it’s really hard to belive when you compare it to similarly priced systems. It even has the possibility to set five different dual rates/Expo for each channels, assignable switches, everything you’d expect from a modern system. The only negative thing I’ve found so far is that flight modes only work in Glider or Heli mode, NOT in motor plane mode. Pretty silly, but when you think about it, they probably just left that out so that plane pilots have a reason to buy the T12 instead, which is more than double the price of this radio. And who needs flight modes with 5 switchable rates, right?
Here’s the RC Universe review of the radio.
The Integral is finally ready. The YS 170 is converted to CDi and as soon as the weather is warmer I will run and tune the engine so it’s ready for the next season of P-11. I’m now using Futaba FASST 2.4 GHz to avoid ignition noise so hopefully I’m immune to radio interference. Ignition is controlled using a Turnigy transmitter operated switch which seems very safe and easy to operate.
Read More »
Carbonfun
We had a chance to look at Hennings new weapons for the coming season. One Delro Addiction and a Naruke hobby Aries kit were inspected. There was sausages, Carbon fiber and great fun.
Pictures
The YS 160 engine failed to run properly so we opened it up. The valve lifter was stuck, _really_ stuck and we found metal shavings had jammed the pump piston. We tried to fix it but never got so far as to test it, when we saw the busted conrod we thought all was lost. Read More »
The idiot does it again. Although the battery change worked (I bought two just in case) I had a little accident. The battery blew up in my face during soldering so I had to spend a couple of minutes picking plastic bits from my left eye. All the while my safety goggles were hanging from the shelf in front of me. They say there’s one born every minute so I guess I’m not alone. Idiot.
